Saltwater Fish Tank Ma

.. no detectable ammonia, nitrites; low nitrates (less than 10ppm), low phosphate (PO4, less than 0.05 mg/l), high redox (up to 425), elevated calcium (ideally 400-475 mg/l), pH 8.0-8.4, alkalinity 2.5-5 meq/l, near-saturation oxygen (generally about 7 mg/l)...

Here is a brief review of filtration types employed for reef use, with my comments on their suitability, and current

The reasons for this are many. Most cultures are feeble, too dilute, and/or made up of inappropriate species of microbes. Way too many times, the hobbyist is to blame. They put the "bugs" in a chemically hostile, non-nutritive medium; or alternatively over-poison the water with an ammonia feeding stock. Watch out for these chemical solutions to "feed" your system; read and follow the directions provided to the "T"; the ammonia provided is concentrated.

The saddest thing about utilizing these commercially prepared cultures i

This may be accomplished in a number of ways. One way is to place a couple of "anchor" pieces on the gravel bed, and glue others to the back of the tank using aquarium epoxy putty (not silicone!). The rest of the live rock may then be bridged across these supports to build the reef, but not too high. The construct should be loose, not tightly packed together, to allow good flow through the rock. Care should be taken not to direct flow from pump returns across the gravel. The emphasis in aquariums using

Air Pumps and Paraphernalia:

These are a source of pressurized air for operating undergravel air lifts, air diffusers (aka "stones"), and air-driven foam fractionators. There are several varieties, the most common/popular are the lines of "diaphragm" type air pumps. These are simple, solid designs that are (hopefully) quiet, consume little energy and are easy to service. The pump must be located higher than water level or employ a suitable back-flow preventer (check-valve) to prevent water capillating, draining out in the event of power or air-pump failure.

Air-line tubing is the 3/16"

To assure this last point is clear. Having low (less than ten ppm) nitrate is desirable, but not essential with fish only, live rock and algae systems.

Your goal in preparing an environment suitable to support your animal livestock is to first get populations of these two bacteria groups going in your new aquarium.

Graph of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate concentrations ver

Complimentary Goldfish
I've heard of people traveling with dogs, cats, and even an occasional fish. But this Chicago hotel takes vacationing with pets to a new level. They will provide a goldfish....

phosphates too high
hello again- Well my 90 gallon predator/reef tank has been up in running for about 7 months. Everything is running smoothly so far- water parameters are nitrate > 20 ppm, nitrite 0ppm, ammonia 0 ppm, pH 8.2, salinity 1.025, but phosphates are way to high it's about 5 ppm. For the past two weeks....

Blue Algae , cyanobacteria

Blue Algae ( cyanobacteria )

Most aquarium hobbyists know and fear this type of algae, well actually it's the organism cyanobacteria. The appearance of the blue algae is often a slimy blue green carpet, qu.